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fine-n-dandy

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the head gasket only goes as a result of poor servicing/care

 

even then, its not as big an issue now as it was

 

 

 

i was referring to an advanced service

 

 

erm, the cooling system?

 

either way, the v6 engine doesnt have any HGF problems - thats the k series ones

 

get your facts straight, cheers

 

 

Listen you tried telling me a head gasket goes as a result of poor servicing. What part of cooling systems is touched in a service? apart from filling up the coolant and checking anti freeze temperature.

 

Water pumps the only thing that is ever changed and that doesn't always happen on the rare occasion a timing belt is changed every few years or 80000+. That can blow a head gasket but that is not checked every service.

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I didn't realise you'd bought it but there are a few important things to check on receipt of the car:

 

1) The KV6 is equipped with variable inlet stator (VIS) Motors inside the inlet manifold. They manipulate the fuel/air mixture and give you a kick at 3000 and 45000RPM. They can wear out depending on driving style and, if they lock in place, you simply won't get the benefit. If, however, on starting the car it sounds like there's a bag of spanners under the bonnet the VIS motor flaps have broken free of their mounts and are jumping and clattering around inside the manifold. You'll need a new manifold in that case.

 

2) There are three "plenum" drain holes to allow water to pass from the windscreen out through the wheel arches. One on the driver's side, one on the passenger side, and one underneath the grating across the back of the engine bay. You need to make sure both side drains are clear, but it's absolutely vital that you check the central drain. Underneath the grating is the car's ECU, which sits above the central drain hole, behind the pollen filter. If that hole is blocked, water will fill the ECU bay and, eventually, drown it.

 

3) Excess vibration in the car can be caused by worn out engine mounts. The easiest way to tell is to check to see how much "give" the engine has on idle inside the bay.

 

4) The car may or may not have an under-engine tray; these were deleted as part of a cost-cutting measure and so some 75/ZTs had them, some didn't. If you do have one, remove it and check to see signs of staining or fluid. These covers reduce road noise, but they also hide a multitude of sins that would otherwise drip onto your driveway and gives you a head up.

 

5)Although the ad mentions a new coolant fan, confirm the fan operates correctly by turning on the rear demist windscreen - the fan should kick into life on low-speed.

 

6)Any grinding, bumping or groaning when turning the steering wheel from lock to lock suggests worn out track rod(s).

 

7) 75s/ZTs have a habit of breaking suspension springs. Early cars had a tendency for the spring to puncture the tyre when it broke, but later cars were fitted with protectors which stopped this. I think your car is probably new enough to have those protectors.

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I didn't realise you'd bought it but there are a few important things to check on receipt of the car:

 

1) The KV6 is equipped with variable inlet stator (VIS) Motors inside the inlet manifold. They manipulate the fuel/air mixture and give you a kick at 3000 and 45000RPM. They can wear out depending on driving style and, if they lock in place, you simply won't get the benefit. If, however, on starting the car it sounds like there's a bag of spanners under the bonnet the VIS motor flaps have broken free of their mounts and are jumping and clattering around inside the manifold. You'll need a new manifold in that case.

 

2) There are three "plenum" drain holes to allow water to pass from the windscreen out through the wheel arches. One on the driver's side, one on the passenger side, and one underneath the grating across the back of the engine bay. You need to make sure both side drains are clear, but it's absolutely vital that you check the central drain. Underneath the grating is the car's ECU, which sits above the central drain hole, behind the pollen filter. If that hole is blocked, water will fill the ECU bay and, eventually, drown it.

 

3) Excess vibration in the car can be caused by worn out engine mounts. The easiest way to tell is to check to see how much "give" the engine has on idle inside the bay.

 

4) The car may or may not have an under-engine tray; these were deleted as part of a cost-cutting measure and so some 75/ZTs had them, some didn't. If you do have one, remove it and check to see signs of staining or fluid. These covers reduce road noise, but they also hide a multitude of sins that would otherwise drip onto your driveway and gives you a head up.

 

5)Although the ad mentions a new coolant fan, confirm the fan operates correctly by turning on the rear demist windscreen - the fan should kick into life on low-speed.

 

6)Any grinding, bumping or groaning when turning the steering wheel from lock to lock suggests worn out track rod(s).

 

7) 75s/ZTs have a habit of breaking suspension springs. Early cars had a tendency for the spring to puncture the tyre when it broke, but later cars were fitted with protectors which stopped this. I think your car is probably new enough to have those protectors.

 

Could you really be arsed doing this for a

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If you're burning through a clutch at 70k miles, either it's a piece of shit, or you drive like a spangle, either way, there's no way a clutch should be going at anything like that mileage.

 

The Diesel 75/ZT had a notoriously weak clutch that rarely made it to 80k without requiring a replacement slave and/or master cylinder. I've heard of petrol derivatives that have suffered the same, but they're few and far between. Either way, since both the slave and master have been changed, it's just one less thing to worry about failing, rather than something to be concerned over. Every car has its weaknesses - from the Audi steptronic gearbox to the variable swirlpots in the BMW 3-series diesel engine or the Ford Zetec's duff (petrol) injectors.

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They seem to have a few issues and although they appear to be replaced it would cause me concern buying one.

 

Having owned one for the better part of three years, I'd say not more so than any other type of car but each to their own. Certainly cheaper to repair if you know where to look, though.

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I wouldn't buy a 2nd hand car nowadays. Not now that I'm loaded. Think of all the farts, sharts, cum, pugs, burger juice, milk, kids debris that has been spilled in them before you get there. No detail is going to pick up all that jandies. 2nd hand cars, and particularly ones that cost less than about ten grand are for minkers.

 

Just my point of view, I understand that some people like, enjoy and maybe even seek out the above additions to a vehicle.

 

I also own a two wheel "classic", but changed the seat and grips when I got it. This is of course an exception to the rule above.

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this is what i think is crazy

 

that painting is lovely, from the fact that you "dis" it, all its telling me is that you dont have a feckin clue about style

 

youre an ugly moron, who im convinced stays in a damp and dank cesspit somewhere in the social backwater that is aberdeen

 

so shut yer yap

 

:hysterical:

 

Says it all you had to lie about its importance in order to justify its purchase :clangers2:

 

Damp and Dark? My Carpet is cream and walls timeless white, i dont think my living room could be any brighter :rolleyes:

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im not holding back today, stuff that

 

 

 

i didnt lie, i merely portrayed (this lost on you too, aye?) it in such a way so that it's importance and grandeur registered in your tiny, illiterate "brain"

 

as for your living room being bright...ironic

 

dont think ive EVER met anyone whose living room was brighter than they were

 

You got lying and i made you look like a plank (which wasnt difficult)

 

Dinna greet :lolceltic:

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